Pamela is the creative brains behind ethical label Nyonyo & Yayra which stands out for the homogeneous nature of its womenswear.
The 34-year-old is a product of the prestigious Central St Martin's College in London. Her fellow alumni include the likes of Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and even the infamous John Galliano. Here's what she told Afro Boudoir recently.
Afro Boudoir: Why did you choose to become a fashion designer?
Pamela: My sister jokes that as a child I was sure I was going to be an actress or a designer. I remember during a school speech day being told by the Ugandan parent of one of my younger schoolmates that if I didn't pursue fashion she would somehow haunt me. But I like to think that being a creative is something you are and not something you choose to do.
AB: What attracted you to sustainable fashion?
Pamela: Growing up in Ghana and I think most Africans will agree that we grow up being sustainable. Take for instance yam, there are so many ways of making it. I also grew up wearing hand-me-downs from my elder siblings and passing them down to cousins and the like if they were not right for me.
As a small brand it actually makes no sense to not be. The challenge is making it such a part of your work ethic that as you grow you just get better at being sustainable not just in fashion, but in all aspects of your life.
AB: What sort of fabrics do you use?
Pamela: I use the ends of rolls which mean it varies from cotton - blue/black waxed cotton, wool, silk pique, cashmere and milk.
AB: How are fabrics made from milk?
Pamela: The milk fabric and my organic fabric mixes at the moment all come from one source in Italy - Euromaglia. They are made of either 100% semi-skimmed milk or an organic cotton/milk mix.
"The milk fibre is made from casein, which is the main protein in milk, and it has long-term emissions of negative ions. It is thus beneficial for air quality, for the stimulation of blood circulation, it is a natural antibacterial agent and it is sterile. Milk amino acids which are transferred to the fibre are a perfect daily treatment for the skin. Fabric produced with this yarn allows skin to breathe and humidity to be absorbed."
Pamela: I use it for the basic pieces like the vests, tops which at the moment seem to be the natural coloured pieces. But in the spring/summer collection, a pair of trousers and a jacket (see photo to the left) were made out of 100% milk twill fabric.
AB: How have to tapped into Ghanaian culture in your clothes?
Pamela: I use waxed cotton. The blue/black is mainly used by Ghanaians. One of my uncles pointed out to me my colour choices actually inform people of my tribal group.
I grew up covered in waxed cotton - either as blankets or dresses. However it is the blue/black which fascinates me. When it is worn, everyone is celebrating a life. Even though everyone is dressed in the same colour, the difference within the person wearing it is more obvious without it being too obvious. The more research I do, the more I realise that your cultural influences are so deeply ingrained that you tap into it without realising.
AB: How would you describe the clothes you design?
Pamela: The five words I use are duality, directional, detailed, quirky and enigmatic.
AB: How did you come up with the name Nyonyo & Yayra?
Pamela: They come from my tribal language in Ghana, Ewe. The Ewes live mainly in the Volta Region of Ghana and in neighbouring Togo. The names are, in general, unisex and loosely translated mean 'Goodness & Blessing'. The name is a way of both acknowledging where I come from as well as thanking someone who means a lot to me. Ironically the unisex nature of the names seems to appear in different aspects of the label.
You can find out more about Nyonyo & Yayra at www.nyonyoandyayra.com or email info@nyonyoandyayra.com.
